Downtown Des Moines on a Bike is a Journey, Not a Destination

One of my great pleasures after a long day of work is to jump on my bike and peddle the urban loop around our amazing Downtown Des Moines (DSM). While our Central Iowa Trail system offers many great ride options, this is my frequent default. It can be as little as 14 miles or more than 30 depending on the different routes you take and explore. It’s a relaxing way to wash away the stress of the day while absorbing the sights of our beautiful city including Downtown DSM.

Biking the Urban Loop in Downtown Des Moines

My favorite time is that window between the setting sun and moonlight as the city takes on a special glow. Each time it reminds me of how Greater Des Moines (DSM) has become a world-class city since I moved back to my home state after many years in Atlanta and points beyond. I think it’s my favorite mostly because it is a feast for the eyes and serves as a reminder of our city’s great past and even greater promise.

As someone who has been involved in a few community initiatives I’m especially appreciative of the significant effort it takes by many to make the things happen and so frequently puts us on the national “best places to…” lists. So, peddling this urban loop is not just a great stress reliever, it is my DIY therapist and serves as a constant visual reminder of how amazing this city is and the efforts of the multitudes of people who have built it and continue to improve it. The ride not only provides instant serenity, but demonstrates how the many different projects and initiatives, old and new, act like pieces of fabric woven together to make up our great city.

 

Now the great thing about a loop is you can jump on wherever the most convenient starting point is. I typically start the loop from the Waveland area just outside of Downtown DSM, where my condo overlooks the Waveland Golf Course, the new Waveland Trolley Loop exhibit and Glendale Cemetery — an immediate reminder of Des Moines past. I usually choose to ride clockwise, heading north through Beaverdale where I pick up one of my riding buddies and the Inter Urban Trail and head to our first Des Moines River crossing. Normally we stop to “inspect” the bridge as part of our civic duty and make sure we have hydrated properly for our next segment.

Next its south on the Neil Smith Trail — a lovely ride along the Des Moines River, by Riverview Park (another nod to both old and new!), the Des Moines Rowing Club, Birdland Marina and of course a stop at Captain Roy’s, because it’s important to buy local and there is usually some live music and several friends relaxing with a libation while watching the river flow by.

Following a brief stop, up the hill along Pennsylvania Avenue past some majestic old homes along the river bluff, around Lutheran Hospital and then back down the hill where Downtown Des Moines truly reveals itself: Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden, Robert D. Ray Asian Garden, Lauridsen Skatepark, Iowa Women of Achievement Bridge, all aglow. You take a deep breath and just take it all in.

It’s also where you are presented a lot of options: Wander into the Historic East Village, stay on the east side of the river or cross over and ride along the battery and the Principal Riverwalk, past the World Food Prize Hall of Laureates and finally down to Principal Park to soak in the sounds of the ballpark or stop and gaze up at the Capitol’s golden dome with the moon behind it.

Again choices. Escape the city with a ride down the Carl Voss Trail to Easter Lake or choose a number of options to cross over the confluence of the Racoon and Des Moines Rivers, but all of these choices allow you to take in the Des Moines skyline with the sun setting in the west. Typically, we turn west on the Meredith Trail, sometimes opting to take the steep but short climb to MacRae Park’s EMC Overlook for yet another view of the city skyline.

 

As we enter into Gray’s Lake Park my bike automatically starts turning left to Confluence Brewing Company, and I’m powerless to resist it because as a native Iowan I understand the importance of value-added agriculture. And as the Executive Director of the Water Works Park Foundation, I understand the importance of value-added H2O, so I follow my bike’s lead. As our water quality message logically states, NO Water, NO Beer. Our city’s many talented craft brewers understand that. And pretty much all of them are accessible by bike.

The city lights have become brighter in the growing darkness so it’s time to cross over the bridge in Gray’s Lake Park on the Kruidenier Trail and head towards the Ruan Connector whose lighting beckons us to the entrance of my personal favorite park of all, Water Works Park. Once there, we head straight to the Des Moines Biergarten. I’m greeted there like I’m Norm on Cheers where seemingly everyone knows my name. It’s that warm small city feel that again makes Des Moines special. The Biergarten captures the true essence of a traditional German beer garden. Not a bar, but rather a welcoming community gathering place for young and old, pets and kids alike.

 

Now I believe I was asked to write this guest blog to talk primarily about Water Works Park, but as they say, “Life is a journey not a destination,” so I just couldn’t ignore acknowledging the connectivity of the trails and the stops and options along the way.

 

However so that I don’t totally ignore my task, here are some things you may not know about Water Works Park. Its 1,500 acres makes it one of the largest urban parks in the country and almost twice the size of New York City’s Central Park. It is not part of the City of Des Moines’ Parks and Recreation system, so the partnership between the Water Works Park Foundation and Des Moines Water Works has served to thoughtfully activate it, utilizing its size, location and added amenities to give it the ability to host large community events inside the heart of Downtown Des Moines’ green space. It is “public” due to the fact it is “owned” by a public utility. But the vast majority of the $14.5 million in improvements have been through private and corporate contributions.

And it’s not just another pretty face; the park has a very utilitarian purpose as it contains both the utility’s largest water production facility and nitrate removal system, but also a three-mile infiltration gallery that runs parallel with the Raccoon River and serves as a natural filtration system producing about 20 million gallons of water per day. The Lauridsen Amphitheater area serves as a destination platform for many of the activities of the park and, in addition to the Biergarten, it includes restrooms, parking, ADA access, a natural play area and both the River to River RAGBRAI sculpture and the acclaimed River Constellation sculpture, named among the top 100 public art pieces in the world in 2019.

The remaining 1,450 acres contain single track trails for mountain bikers and hikers, equestrian trails, several different mini ecosystems and plenty of places to explore, jog, bike, fish, bird watch, gather, picnic and relax. Soccer South, the former Little All American Football fields and Racoon Valley Little League all sit within Water Works Park. The former unpolished gem of Des Moines is beginning to shine even brighter. Different Central Iowa Trail signs throughout the park tell the story of the park and utility’s history, the gallery and the water production process. Check them out (preferably when it’s still light out) and you may discover some pretty interesting stuff.

 

Before we climb “back up the hill” and complete my loop odyssey, no trip to Water Works Park is complete without inspecting the park’s pedestrian bridge that has been spanning the Raccoon River since 1900. It is here where I squeeze out the last bit of serenity of my ride. After all, there is a hill looming, more choices and more miles to ride. There are a lot of places along the way to get the perfect picture and contemplate all those who have come before us and who will come after. But right now, the bridge is mine.

 

Next time you find yourself cursing the inconvenience of construction, closures, events, politics, schedules, etc. Jump on a bike (an electric BCycle bike from the Des Moines Street Collective makes it easy if you are not a regular rider!) and explore our city from the trails. You’ll see firsthand why we make the good lists.

I personally just had one of my four sons move back to DSM from Louisville. He’s well into his career so when I inquired what made Des Moines attractive to him, his southern girlfriend and my granddog Stella, he simply said, “Des Moines is cooler now Dad.”

Thank you, Des Moines.

Downtown Des Moines (DSM) is a growing, vibrant community that offers the energy, sophistication, housing and attractions of a burgeoning city with a brilliant future. It’s also easy to visit with plentiful and affordable street and ramp parking options. Find event information and follow @downtownDSMUSA on Facebook and Instagram for other news, tips and events happening downtown.